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| Image - Calypso Paoli |
I've always held The Fashionisto in such high regard. It is my go-to-guy when it comes to menswear imagery. A one-stop-shop for the best male fashion campaigns, editorials and runway productions in the world. It represents an incredibly comprehensive view of global mens fashion, without sacrificing quality.
Initially an only an aggregator, The Fashionisto launched an in-house magazine in February of 2010. It was a logical next step for an entity with a such a large readership and experienced editing eye. It was to be, or so I thought, a chance for incredible, but otherwise unpublished, photographers and stylists to display their work.
New Zealand's creative talent has recently featured on The Fashionisto, in an exclusive - McInnes Taljaard By Calypso Paoli. An editorial shot by Calypso Paoli and styled by Benjamin Walls, features the top names in New Zealand fashion design. What could have been an incredibly rare chance to display our countries best talent to the world, was anything but.
The stylist of this editorial, Benjamin Walls, is a photographer - by training, but not by trade. It is perhaps due to this lack of educational and professional styling experience that this shoot seems to possess no definitive identity or personality. From Indiana Jones, to an Ivy League attendee, to John Steed - it transcendeds look, style, or reason.
Besides the lack of real character direction, there is no styling polish in this shoot. Shirt collars are too large and not reduced with styling tricks, delicate fabrics are not ironed or streamed, and rich felts still have traces of dust and lint.
I get the feeling that the stylist forced every piece of menswear he collected into the shoot, without editing or thought as to what was being photographed.
There are a couple of great looks in this editorial. But they are lost amongst the sea of mediocrity. With a little bit of garment editing, this could have been a winner.
Besides the lack of real character direction, there is no styling polish in this shoot. Shirt collars are too large and not reduced with styling tricks, delicate fabrics are not ironed or streamed, and rich felts still have traces of dust and lint.
I get the feeling that the stylist forced every piece of menswear he collected into the shoot, without editing or thought as to what was being photographed.
There are a couple of great looks in this editorial. But they are lost amongst the sea of mediocrity. With a little bit of garment editing, this could have been a winner.
HA, AS A PHOTOGRAPHER WITH TEN YEARS INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE I CAN ANNOUNCE THAT YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT. BEING A LOVER OF FASHION DOES NOT MEAN THAT FASHION LOVES YOU, GET A LIFE AND A JOB AND DON'T BAD MOUTH PEOPLE FOR THE SAKE OF IT.. ALL THIS ARTICLE PROVES IS THAT YOU ARE LAME OLD STYLIST OUT OF WORK, BECAUSE SOMEONE WHO DOES BIG CAMPAIGNS WOULDN'T BOTHER WRITING THIS GARBAGE ABOUT TWO YOUNG UP AND COMERS WHO ARE DOING GREAT WORK FOR NO PAY.
ReplyDeleteWhat a prick, whoever wrote this clearly failed when they tried their time in probably London or somewhere predictable like that. Ugh. If you have nothing to show for yourself or your work then shut the fuck up!!!! Your opinion, which sorry hun, is just as subjective as the rest of ours, is really not worth anyone's while. It's people like Ben and Calypso who are actually going to help push the boundaries and progress NZ in a mission of innovation, exploration and influence - all of which you'll have no part in because you clearly don't have any passion or drive like these legends. Stop "freelancing" and get a life you idiot.
ReplyDelete"I am not a professional fashion critic, and I am not a professional fashion writer. I am however a lover of fashion..."
ReplyDeletePerez Hilton is also a lover of fashion honey & that doesn't mean he has fashion sense. You need to stick to what you do best - being an anonymous coward. On that note...
"While I don't like the idea of hiding behind a wall of anonymity, it allows me freedom of expression without social and professional repercussions."
So basically you keep yourself anonymous because if anyone knew who you really were all your pathetic efforts of kissing ass to industry would sabotage you. Don't even try to dismiss this as it's obvious you would need no reason to hide if industry actually gave a shit about your input.
Please keep writing I love your honesty.
ReplyDeleteI like how anal you are with the dust on the felt hat, the structure of the collar etc. Being meticulous in your work is good.
ReplyDeleteThey could have photoshopped it all out though, however I think the whole budget maybe have not worked for that. I guess you could question the integrity of the work and the people to make you point valid when you write something, instead of blatantly saying that they did a 'mediocre' job. I personally love fashion too, and I love the freedom they had in this editorial instead of 'editors' making you place certain brands, combos together for advertising purposes. True, they didn't have a clear story or direction, but neither does Fashionisto. I think for this editorial its to shoot, style, nuture and create editorials for the love of fashion, rather then have a themed issue, month after month, editorial after editorial where ideas run out or recycled for the modern. And also advertising, which pays the bills to stay alive and running.
I definitely love how opinionated you are, and hiding behind a facade is what some people would do to feel comfortable with what they are saying. And given that the industry in NZ is so small that you wouldn't want to burn a bridge in fear of not moving forward. But what about integrity for yourself, pride, of who you are as a person? I guess not being asked your opinion is a good thing sometimes. And when you do get asked, what do you hold back and not say?
Keep going. At least someone in the NZ fashion industry is being vocal to a point.
I love how all these comments are from anonymous people.
ReplyDeleteI like the voice behind this blog.
ReplyDeletealso:
"HA, AS A PHOTOGRAPHER WITH TEN YEARS INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE"
LOL. You come off as a joke. You sound like an asshole (as do most of the other commenters in here too).
It is nice to have some constructive criticism, as this is the only negative feedback we have had from this editorial.
ReplyDeleteI would like to clarify and correct a few of the points you have made.
The only reason this was not published in any homegrown titles is because we created this specifically for The Fashionisto Exclusive. What I tried to do, and I feel I succeeded, is create several quite different looks to appeal to The Fashionisto's wide audience. It is true that this would usually cause a confused response due to lack of definition, but this is what I decided was best for our editorial.
This was not 'New Zealand for The Fashionisto'. It was not a rare opportunity to showcase New Zealand designers. Carl Barnett publishes several Exclusives a week. It would be great if more New Zealanders submitted work to him.
Also, I am actually a barista by trade.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Happy New Year!
:-)