Zambesi S/S11/12 Campaign Image

Zambesi S/2 2011/12 Campaign. Image - Zambesi/Marissa Findlay

For a fashion house with such vast experience, the recently published Zambesi S/S11/12 campaign image (above), shot by Marissa Findlay, was unusually confusing. Featuring three models surrounded, dressed, and made-up in white, it should have been an exercise in simplicity without distraction.

I must admit that Krystal Glynn at Clyne (middle) looks incredible. She conveys an exclusive, aspirational mood that is expected from one of New Zealand's oldest and most respected fashion houses. Glynn's lipstick is an incredibly striking, yet subtle deep red that demands attention without distracting the eye. Her perfectly tousled platinum blonde hair displays a relaxed attitude while simultaneously alluding to a constant dignity and poise.

The males however, David Kemp at Nova (front) and Joshua Skelton at Vanity Walk (rear), appear to lack the polish and consideration that was given their female counterpart.

Pure white hair, while an impressive feat by Jason Li at Stephen Marr given the natural brunette of both Kemp and Skelton, appears lackluster and undernourished. Rather than implying a nonchalant or carefree attitude, it is one of haste and poverty. The hair of both Kemp and Skelton is neither highly polished, nor effortlessly messy - it seems to hang between both in a confusing limbo.

The 'Zero Tie' clipped onto the neckline of Kemp's tee, is surely the most confusing aspect of this image. Standing out as the only non-white item draws an oddly large amount of attention a completely unnecessary item. The relaxed attitude and ease in which the rest of the garments are worn contradicts the forced and fussy nature of the disco influenced costume tie. The awkward v-neck that is created by the weight of the tie seems out of place, as one of the few sharp angles displayed in this image.

Although these two issues may seem incredibly minor, they distract from what is otherwise an incredible campaign image. I find myself overcome by these two small faults, and unable to appreciate the simplicity of the image as a whole.

This is not the first image used to advertise the Zambesi S/S11/12 collection, but it is the least impressive. There are other, substantially better options. Perhaps it is a matter of sharpening the editing knife and trimming the fat - placing the focus upon fewer images, which display a higher degree of professionalism and a more concise mood.

As I've mentioned before (here), Zambesi do not work with a dedicated stylist, and this may be a good example of why they should.

Zambesi A/W12 NZFW Runway

Image - TheAList.co.nz

HOLY SHIT! The Zambesi A/W12 collection is top of the pops.

I don't consider myself to be a fashion critic by any means - I lack the historical knowledge and technical eye required for the role. But, I believe the Zambesi A/W12 collection shown at New Zealand Fashion Week 2011 to be their best in years. And what excited me just as much the clothes, was their excellent runway presentation.

For A/W12, Zambesi really upped their game.

Never using a dedicated stylist for their runway shows, I always found Zambesi to lack direction on the runway - especially once they decided on their love of Doc Martens. Every season featured the same listless models who displayed no obvious or immediate distinction from the seasons prior.

However, their A/W12 runway display broke from this tradition.

The hair, the make-up, the music - it was perfect. Bursting from the usual black frontstage, what I had expected to be another display of exclusively somber colours was anything but. Flourescent blues and yellows were perfectly placed within an incredibly sporty collection. The skull slick hair with sharp, to the point make-up was a perfect fit for the sporty, minimal aesthetic of the collection. The overarching sporting aesthetic of the runway presentation gave their customarily fitted garments reason and purpose. Gone was the nonchalant attitude that always seemed to contradict collections with such polish.

I suggest picking up a piece from this collection when it hits stores in March/April - it will go down in history as Zambesi's best since the glory years of the New Zealand Four in 1999/2000.